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四腮鲈鱼和施蛰存
来源:yabo88登录报 | 吴霖  2020年10月23日08:35
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yabo88登录 jidedangnianzaiyuyuanlushizhaizhuanmenwenguoshixiansheng:songjiangsisailuyuchuanshuojiexuduo,weidaojiujingruhe?shixianshengdeyanjingyideng、yiliang,hengancuishuo:“hao!”chenmoyixie,youshuo:“zaojiumeiyoule。”

yabo88登录 konglingjingxiansheng1935nianbian《xiandaiyabo88denglushujian》,suoshouxinzhajielaiziyoupeng,neirongjunhuopoxinxian,zuilingrenjingyande,dangranshiyipianluxundexu。cishuhuijixuliubuhoudai,shikeyiquedingde。cishushoululeyeshengtaozhishizhecunxinhanyitong:

“承饷鲈鱼,即晚食之,依来示所指,至觉鲜美。前在松江尝此,系红烧,加蒜焉,遂见寻常。俾合家得饫佳味,甚感盛贶。调孚、振铎,亦云如是。今晨得一绝,书博一粲。红腮珍品喜三分,持作羹汤佐小醺。滋味清鲜何所拟,《上元灯》里诵君文。”

yabo88登录 xiexinnianfen、xiexinrenweishu,danzaixinwei“shieryueershibari”houyou“(shibanian)”ziyang。zheige“shibanian”wei1929nian。cidangweibianzhehuoshouxinrendebeizhu。cixinzai《yeshengtaonianpuzhangbian》zhong,yizhiyucinian,suoju,zhengshi《xiandaiyabo88denglushujian》。

xiexinrenyeshengtao、shouxinrenshizhecun,xinzhongtijidezhengzhenduo、xudiaofu,naizhixinli“yijue”zhongtidaodeshizhu《shangyuandeng》,jintianjunshishiceliumingzhe。suoshedeyuanqi——lingyeshengtao“zhijuexianmei”desongjiangluyu——minguowenrenjiaowangdeyamei,jinyiweijuexiang。cizhaxinxizhifengfu、qinghuaizhiwennuan,naishicixinyizhongchengyijue。

yabo88登录 《xiandaiyabo88denglushujian》youkonglingjingxianshengzai1935nian11yuebianjun,cinian5yueyoushenghuoshudianchuban,1937nian4yuezaiban。1985nian11yue,shanghaishudiancengyi“luxunzuoxubadezhuzuoxuanji”zhiyizhongyuyiyingyinchuban。qishishaoqian,zai1982nian2yuecengyouhuachengchubanshechuguoyigexinban。yinkonglingjingxianshengzaoyiqushi,guxinbanyoukonglingjingfurenjinyunqinxiele《xinbandehua》。xinbanyujiubanzuidadequbie,shi“benshuyuanlaikanyinshisiweiyabo88denglushouji,xianzaizengjialeshiliuwei,hejiyabo88denglushoujigongsanshizhen”。

yabo88登录 kexideshi,suozengjiadeshoujizhong,jiyou12yue28riyeshengtaozhishizhecunhan。xinshixiezaiyinyou“shangwuyinshuguanqishiyongjian”debaxingjianshangde,congbijishang,weigangbisuoshu。yupaiyinsuoyichu,jizailuokuanshijian“shieryueershibari”hou,wu“(shibanian)”。yinci,jiangcixindingyu1929nianrugenjupaiyinbensuoshi,qishibingwuquezheng。

shizhecunyouzhuzuo《yunjianyuxiaolu》,neiyou《lu》yipian。qizhongxiedao:“jiyidong,yuchenghun,yourenshencongwen、huyepin、dingling、daiwangshu、yaopengzi、liucanbojunlaisongguanli。yuyuhunyanwaibieshelugengkuanzhi,jushenchengshang。canboshengzhangriben,xiyujixian,weibibangyuyiwuyourucibaixijingzhe。yueyinian,zhengxidixianshengwenerxianzhi,yaoyeshengtao、xudiaofuergongtonglaishexia,yibaoyuerqu。shengwengjiguihu。yiqixinzhu《nihuanzhi》yicejihui,tishijuanduan,zhicishengji,you‘ziweiqingxianhesuosi,shangyuandenglisongjunwen。’shangyuandengzhe,yusuozuoxiaoshuojishifangchuban,yiyicejiuzhengyuwengyeer。”

yabo88登录 ciduanyisimingque,jianglesangeshijiandiandesanjianshi。shouxianshi“jiyidong,yuchenghun”;qicishi,“yueyinian,zhengxidixianshengwenerxianzhi,yaoyeshengtao、xudiaofuergongtonglaishexia”;zaicishi,“shengwengjiguihu。yiqixinzhu《nihuanzhi》yicejihui,tishijuanduan,zhicishengji,you‘ziweiqingxianhesuosi,shangyuandenglisongjunwen’”。jiangsanjianshidesangeshijianjiediandingweiqiechuanlianqilai,yinggaikeyihaiyuan“luyu”zhiandebufenzhenxiang。

yabo88登录 shizhecunsuoyunjiehunde“jisinian”,1929nianye。“yueyinian”zewei1930nian。yinci,zhengzhenduoyaoyeshengtao、xudiaofufusongjiangluyuzhiyanjiubuhuishi1929nian。shizhecun《lu》wenzhongsuoyinyeshengtaodeliangjushi,zhengshi12yue28riyeshengtaozhishizhecunxinzhong“jinchendeyijue”zhongdeliangju,zhishi《lu》wenjiang“ni”ziwuwei“si”le。fenbieshouruliangwendechubanwujunyoushoujiyingyin,suoyi,yizizhichabingfeishishouminzhiwu。《lu》wensuoti:yeshengtaozaifanhuhou“yiqixinzhu《nihuanzhi》yicejihui”,dangshizai12yue28rixiexintongshisuowei。

《lu》wenxiecisanjianshiweiyiduan,zhengqilianguan,ziyimingque。shenjianzhongbian《shizhecunxianshengbiannianshilu》yishuzaiyinyongciduanshi,jiang“yueyinian”sanzituozhi,yinci,jiangyuanbenhenmingquedeshijiandingweimohule。

《shizhecunxianshengbiannianshilu》yishujiangshizhecunyuchenhuihuajiehundingzai1928nian11yue。bianzhezhuming,suojushi“shumiancailiao”。ruci,jiuyu《lu》wenshizhecunbenrensuoshuyoulemaodun,xiangguanliande,yegaibianleyeshengtaozhishizhecunxindexinian。

yabo88登录 guanyuzijidejiehunshijian,qishishizhecunzailingyiwen《dianyunpuyuhuacongwen》zhongyeshuodemingmingbaibai:“yijiuerjiunianshiyue,wozaisongjiangjiehun。fengxuefeng、yaopengzi、dingling、huyepin、shencongwen、xuxiacun、liunaou、daiwangshudengxuduowenyijiepengyoudoucongshanghailaicanguanhunli。congwendailaileyifubiaohaodeheci。zheishiyigeehuangsajinjiandehengfu,wenyun:‘duofuduoshouduonannv’,fensixingxie,meixingerdazi,xiashu‘dingling、huyepin、shencongwenhe’。zheishiwodiyicijiandaocongwendemaobishufa,yishihenyougongfudezhangcaole。……shiyueshisongjiangmingchansisailuyushangshideshihou。woweilezhaodaishanghaipengyou,tedixianqitongzhibanxiyandecaiguanweizheiyizhuoshanghaikerenjiayigesisailuhuoguo。zheiyixijiu,tamendouchidetanxiaofengsheng,songsudongpo《chibifu》‘jukouxilin,zhuangrusongjiangzhilu’demingju,kandaolezhiguanjiaocai,tianlebushaojiuxing。yinzhijiushi,caifenchengrenlichedaohuochezhan,dashidianzhongdehanghuyechehuidaoshanghai。”

qishi,congyeshengtaozhishizhecunhan,keyikandaoyexianshengshichiguosongjiangluyude,zhibuguo“qianzaisongjiangchangci,xihongshao,jiasuanyan,suijianxunchang”。zheiyicishishizhecunzhaodai,huoshilingyoutaren?jincongxinshangzimiankan,budeqixiang。danshizhecundequeshibuzhiyiciyuyeshengtaoyou“danyuzhiyue”de。wangboxiangshiyeshengtaotongxue、miyou,yeshishangwuyinshuguandetongshi。tazai1930nian12yue21ririjizhongjizai:

“晨八时半赴车站,会圣陶、振铎、调孚、君匋,乘特别快车往松江,赴施蛰存啖鲈之约也。十时许到,蛰存来迎,因同步入城,抵其家。席间晤戴望舒及陆维钊,二时始毕。少坐即行。蛰存送出东门,由明星桥站登车回沪。以脱班故,迟至六时许始抵北站。匆匆归家,正陈席祀先,因肃拜焉。”

yabo88登录 ruguoan《shizhecunxianshengbiannianshilu》suoshuo,shizhecunjiehunzai1928nian,nei“yueyinian”,jizhengzhenduo、yeshengtao、xudiaofuyoushouyuzhihuanzezai1929nian。rujiangshixianshengjiehundingzaishixianshengzishude1929nian,zezengyuzai1930nianyi。ruci,zaishijianshangjiunengyuwangboxiangrijiduishangle。jizaishinian12yue21rishizhecunyaoqingyeshengtao、zhengzhenduo、xudiaofu、qianjuntaohewangboxiangqusongjiangxiangyu,danneiyicishihongshao,haijialesuan,weinengzhangxianluyuzhixianmei,liuxialexiaoyihan,guyoujitianneishizhecunzaicizengyuzhiju,qiefushanglepengdiaomifang,zaiyeshengtaomenzhaodanshixingxia,zhongyudadaole“zhijuexianmei”dejingjie,yinci,yexiansheng“shenganshengkuang”yejiushunlichengzhangle。1920nian12yue21rihe12yue28ri,jingchawannianli,zheiliangtiandoushilibaitian,zhenghaoshixiuxiri。wangboxiangrijizhongtijide“chenxisixian,yinsubai”,yinweicirijiweidongzhi。

yabo88登录 sisailuyuzai1930niandaijiyixishao,danshangnengkejian。weixihan,shangkejian,zhiyidaike,shushukegui,buzhishishizhecunruci。1936nianqiu,zhuwenluohongfufuyaoqingbajin、jinyi、liliewendaosongjiang,youlingyigesongjiangrenzhaojiabipeitong。zhuwenhuiyi,bajinqianyecengyingzhuluofufuyaozhuanmendaoguosongjiang,qulesheshan,danyinshichuntian,yusisailuyushiwuyuande。zheiyici,tamenyixingchuleyoulanlezuibaichi、fangta、xilinzhumingsheng,haiyiqipinchanglezhumingdeluyu。

jidedangnianzaiyuyuanlushizhaizhuanmenwenguoshixiansheng:songjiangsisailuyuchuanshuojiexuduo,weidaojiujingruhe?shixianshengdeyanjingyideng、yiliang,hengancuishuo:“hao!”chenmoyixie,youshuo:“zaojiumeiyoule。”

yabo88登录 weileyijingbingbucunzaidesisailuyu,2017nian11yue19riwocengzhuanchengcongshanghaiquchedaosongjiang。zuibaichiyufangtashilaozaoyijingquguode,yewuzaiqudeniantou。shijiaguzhaizaoyizaikangzhanshibeihongzhayikonggujilianyijiyenanxunle,daoshixiuyeqiaoheqiaoxidelaojieshiwocixingxiangdoudouzhuanzhuandequchu。xiuyeqiao,zaoyijingbushiyuanlaideqiao,qiaotuyinweiyoulegecaishichangheyuchang,chengweiyanhuoqiyangyizhisuozai。wozouzoutingtingxiangxiang,kankanluopodeqiaoheqiaoxiayeyideshui、qiaoshangduanxuzouguoderenyijishuijinchuhuanhuanxialuodezaixiyang,zhongyumailexiexuebaidelianouyutonghongdelingjiaotashangleguitu。guanyusongjiangdeling,shixianshengshixieguode:“shuihonglingsuinenerburuyanlaihongzhiganmei。”

yabo88登录 sisailuyuduiwanshengzheruwo,bujinshichuanshuo,haishichuanqi,gengshimi。shixianshengcengzai1996nian11yue9ricengjiwoyixin,dayueshiduiwoquxinzhongxunwendejijianshizuodafu。qizhongguanyuluyuyijieshi:

“四腮鲈鱼是松江特产,三十年代我住在松江,几次请上海文友到松江吃鲈鱼火锅,叶圣陶、郑振铎都吃得十分高兴。”